June 5: Back to Work

Adios until next time!

June 1-3: Wisconsin

Spent the weekend in WI visiting the relatives.

May 29 - 31: Drive to Seattle

Took the scenic backroads from Vegas and camped at some great spots. Saw a little of the great salt flat desert. Was actually excited to be back in Seattle, then I hit traffic.

May 25 - 28: Las Vegas

Celebrated Dad's 59th birthday in Vegas! Margaritaville was right in our hotel!

May 17 - 24: San Diego

Back in the USA! Hard not to say 'gracias' and 'hola' anymore and go back to throwing toilet paper in the toilet. Sad to say, but I quickly went right back to the glutonous, lazy American lifestyle. TiVo is dangerous!

May 14 - 16: El Salvador

Very hot and humid. Not lots of turists so I really wanted to like the place, but it was kinda of expensive to be sharing a non-airconidtioned room with cockroaches on a not-so-great beach. Plus the beginning surf wasnt any good. Decided to head back to the States a few days early.

May 11-13: Huaraz

Just chill for a few days and soak up my surroundings since I know this is all coming to an end soon.

May 6-10: Santa Cruz and Lake 69

Hiked 4 days with the group and even got fried chicken for dinner. The bus dropped me off on the way back to Huaraz so I could spend another day in the mountains by myself.

May 4 - 5: Huaraz and Pastorouri

Wandered around this small town in the middle of the one of supposedly greatest alpine-mountain trekking areas. Took a day trip to Pastorouri with a mainly Peruvian crowd and had some gallina soup.

May 3: Arequipa

May 2: Chivay

Recovered from the Colca Canyon trek in this small town's hot springs.

April 29 - May 1: Colca Canyon

Hiked down into Colca Canyon. Deeper than the Grand Canyon but not cut as dramatically - there are little villages located in the canyon walls. Lost the trail for a little while and ended up scrambling along the wall. Nice pool at the bottom to soak those sore feet.

April 28: Arequipa

April 14 - 28: Cusco

Back in Cusco, I actually remember the cobble streets and the plaza area. This time around I explored the city more and the surrounding sacred valley.

I think two weeks is the longest I´ve ever stayed in one place this whole trip. Studied spanish (yes, at the end of my trip) and stayed with a family. (Got home-made, Peruvian meals every day!) The family was great - the grown children still live at home plus one kid´s husband and baby, two other students, and a kid from the country. The only problem was that they seemed to think that I understood what they were saying.

April 11-13: Travel

It was very sad to leave Argentina. I love it - the people, the land, (the wine, the cost), everything. I could live there.

Spent few days travelling. Bus from Mendoza to Santiago, Chile. Stayed in Bella Vista in Santiago - I think I could live in Chile too. Flew to Lima. Still don´t think there is much to do in Lima but they do have a fancy mall built into a cliff overlooking the ocean that is pretty cool. Flew to Cusco.

April 9-10: Mendoza

Recovered in Mendoza, not only from the hike but from a head/chest cold. Treated myself to my own room in the center of town with a balcony overlooking the street. Mendoza is the perfect size town and is not completely overrun by tourist. Though I imagine its excruciatingly hot in the summer.

If I would have had more time I would have loved to hung around and do some hiking in Umpsalta near Mendoza. Its a beautiful area where lots of scenes from Seven Years in Tibet were filmed.

April 6 - 8: Parque Aconcagua

Happy birthday to me! Thirty-two! I´m convinced its going to be one of the best years ever. As a kid, I loved going with my dad when he went to play softball, and he was always lucky # 32.

I may be a little old though, I passed up fried chicken, cake, wine and the clubs, to go hiking and camping at Parque Aconcagua for my bday. Well, I guess ´just dinner´ on Thursday (April 5) lasted until 3am so I did get my bday drink and sang to.

Parque Aconcagua is home to the highest peak in the Americas - 6,962 meters (I´ve given up converting to feet). Did the 3-day trek to the base camp to enjoy the views. The area is much different from Patagonia - its desert here with little vegetation and the peaks are much higher.

April 4 - 5: Mendoza

Mendoza is in the heart of wine country. Took a wine/bike tour, which was great, though you have to wonder how wise it is to have all these buzzed tourists riding rickety bikes down narrow country roads. I met more than one person who had taken a tumble.

April 2 - 3: Buenos Aires

Huge, alive city. Stayed in San Telmo, went shopping at the Plaza Galleria, saw some street tango. If it wasn´t so hot and humid, I might have stayed longer

March 28 - April 1: El Calafate

El Calafate is another small, tourist town in beautiful Patagonia. Went to see the Perito Moreno glacier which is over 100 feet high. Saw two huge chunks break off and fall away into the lake. (In the past, people have died from the flying ice so they only let you get so close now). Took a boat up to the stable face of the glacier. Pretty impressive.

March 20 - 27: El Chalten, Argentina

El Chalten is 4 hours on dirt roads from nowhere. Horses wander the 3 dusty streets. The grocery store sells 10 items. And it absolutely beautiful! It reminds me of Colorado (most mountain areas do) except there are these crazy glaciated peaks.

Trekked to Laguna Torre, de Los Tres, Lago Electrico, and Laguna Torre, which was the best since I was about the only one out there. I realized this may have been the first time I´ve ever been camping by myself, without other people or Caleb (I miss my baby). The area is much quieter and drier than Torres del Paine, but the wind was fierce. I think even my eyes got windburnt.

March 16 - 19: Puerto Natales, Chile

Recovery days. Involved lots of Chilean wine, chocolate and ice cream.

March 11 - 15: Torres del Paine National Park

We took on the 5-day W trek and my camping gear endured the Patagonia weather! We even did the scramble before dawn to see the sunrise at the Torres. The night before we climbed up to check it out and shared some boxed wine with a large group and watched someone skinny dipping in the glacial lake.

Met lots of folks on the hike but mainly hiked with 2 other American girls and 3 American guys. (And I have to point out that it was the women who did the full self-supported, carry-your-own-gear, sleep-outside-in-the-howling-weather adventure while the guys stayed in the refuges and had meals cooked for them.)

March 4 - 8: Ushuaia

I made it the end of the world, the southern tip of Argentina, after over 30 hours on the bus. I hiked two days in Tierra del Fuego National Park and took a boat ride on Beagel Channel to see the penguins!

Feb 27 - 28: Mount Tronador

I hiked up to and spent the night at Refugio Meiling. It was a beautiful day and you could hear a thundering sound as pieces of the glacier broke off. When I woke up the next morning there was snow on the ground. It cleared up as I descended the mountain and was treated to great views.

Feb 24 - 25: National Park Nahuel Huapi

The first day was all up and down, up and down. My plan for the second day followed an exposed ridge, but the winds were too strong so I headed back to town through the valley (much easier hike!) It was a good thing I did come back early since, surprise, I realized I didn't have my debit card. At least I now know how to make cheap international phone calls.

Feb 19 - 23 Mas Bariloche

Well, my week of Spanish classes has at least helped me understand a little more when other gringos speak Spanish. Through the school I also go the opportunity to volunteer with some kids in the barrio and take another salsa class.

I love siesta time here but I had a hard time adjusting to Argentinians habit of going out much later than I am used to... I've had dinner at midnight here. Thank god I'm not working.

Feb 17 - 18: Bariloche, Argentina

Bariloche reminds me alot of a Colorado ski resort town... there is pilates, a LaCoste store, and they have my hair products. Its a big change from Ecuador, and more expensive. It doesn't get dark here until 9pm!

I biked part of the Chico Circuit until my chain broke and I had to hitch a ride with a nice family.

I love sitting at a table or somewhere where I am the only native English speaker. I am learning so much.

Feb 15 - 17: Chile, Chile, Chile

I spent all Wednesday travelling so it was great to receive a nice, warm welcome in the Santiago airport at 4am. I stayed for two days in Santiago with Bre's college friend Becka who fed and sheltered me, got me into Chilean soap operas, and filled me in on some quirky Chilean traits.

Feb 11 - 13: Cotopaxi

I climbed this mountain - Cotopaxi at 19,300+ feet, the second highest peak in Ecuador! Well, we almost summitted - someone from the group had bad altitude sickness and we turned around at about 600 feet from the top. But thats pretty damn close!

Feb 6 - 10: Baños

I´ve met other tourists who have studied Spanish from scratch for 4 weeks and are fluent. I don´t think I will be one of them. After 3 days of classes in Baños all I know is that I have alot to learn. When I was not studying or just strolling around town, I went on a few hikes around town and biked the famous road to Puyo laden with amazing waterfalls.

February 2-5: Amazon Jungle

Into the jungle we go! It took 2 hours on a bus and 4 hours on a boat to reach our lodge in the Cuyabeno Reserve. A six-foot anconda who had just ate a small animal was at our campsite to greet us. Other lovely creatures we saw as we canoed through the balck rivers and hiked the jungle - monkeys, dolphins, scorpions, tarantulas, bats and cockroaches. And everything is bigger in the jungle. The jungle is so alive you don´t touch anything for fear of getting a parasite or being bitten. We also visited a native community.



All the bugs loved my bags and clothes, especially the cockroaches.

February 1: La Mitad del Mundo

Today I went to the center of the Earth and straddled the equator. Then I hiked the rim of Volcano Pululahua. People actually live in the caldera. I got a sweaty salsa class in before taking the night bus to Lago for my jungle journey.

Jan 29 - Jan 31: Quito, Ecuador

Quito, sitting at 9,000 or so feet in the Andes Mountains, is a pretty city. Its accessible and there is lots of plazas, parques (parks), and churches. The older part of town is a World Heritage site and dominated by colorful colonial-style buildings (thats what the book calls it) with ornate balconies. There´s hills/mountains all around town where you can great views of the city.


I even did some high altitude hiking in Quito. I took the new teleferiQo (gondola) up the flanks of Volcan Pichincha to 12,000+ feet. Then I hiked to Rucu Pichincha at almost 14,000 feet.

On my first outing in the city, I came across a political demonstration. There were a few items thrown and the police were out in full gear. I tried asking what was going on but all I figured out was "no mas queso a los ratas de congreso" (no more cheese for the rats in congress?) At least they like their president.

I visited a working convent filled with bloody images, a dark-skinned saint figurine (the first I´ve ever seen?), and a scary life-size Virgin doll sleeping/dead in bed. I met a nice guy there who tried to give me a tour of the place. At one point I think he was talking about recent animal sacrifice. I´m hoping something got lost in translation.

January 23: Back in the USA

PICTURES HAVE BEEN ADDED TO OLD POSTS!! AND THE POSTS ARE UPDATED.

January 20 - January 21: Delhi

I stayed in Paharganj area and did a whirlwind tour of Delhi - Connaught Place, Lakshmi temple, Indira Gandhi's home and museum, India gate, secretariat buidlings, Qutb Minar (historic Muslim tower), Raj Ghat (where Gandhi was cremated)and the Bahai temple. Unfortunately, the Red Fort was closed due to the upcoming Republic Day.

January 19: Rajaji National Park

I saw a hyena today! I went on a elephant safari and wasn't expecting to see much (and I wasn't quite sure why I felt like I needed to go to a park to see animals when they are all over the city). Just riding an elephant with my two guides, one with a spear and the other with a rifle, as he bush-whacked through the forest and ate down the trees was pretty cool. But I also got to see lots of deer, peacocks, wild boars, and a huge healthy female hyena!

January 17 - January 18: Rishikesh

I'm so happy to be near the mountain! The air and water is crisper and cleaner. Even the animals are healthier and happier (which also means they are a little more bold).


My two days in Rishikiesh were very relaxing. I did yoga every day, got an Aryuvedic massage, and just wandered around the town checking out all the sights and people watching.

January 16: Travel day

Took a 24-hour train ride to the foot of the Himalayas in search of a little peace and quiet and some wide open spaces.

January 13 - January 15: Varanasi

Varanasi is a crazy place. Bathing and burning ghats line the shore of the Ganges River. Pilgrims come from all over to bathe in the holy, heavily polluted river. Bodies are also burned here 24 hours a day and then the ashes are spread into the river. When I visited one of the burning ghats, there was 12 bodies simultaneously being cremated. (Each body takes about 3 hours to burn.) The old part of the city is a tangle of narrow alleyways filled with little idols and worship nooks. A festival was going on, so there was hundreds of kites in the sky and many special ceremonies and sadhus. It was a great place just to sit back and watch.





On Tuesday, I took a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges River.

January 10 - January 12: Agra

We rented a taxi for the day to take us to all the sites in Agra. Our first stop was the Agra Fort where we watched monkeys scale the supposedly impenetrable walls. The taxi then made an unrequested stop at a tile factory. We got to see the gruelling, detailed work that goes into creating each piece. I didn't buy anything but I was really impressed. We did a little more shopping before hitting the Taj Mahal for sunset.


And then there was one. The rest of the group left the on Thursday to head back to the United States. I was having some travelling sickness and we had been moving at a pretty busy pace, so I spent Thursday and Friday in Agra. I walked around the town and saw why taking a taxi is the way to go. When walking, you are more up close to all the garbage and every tourist tout harasses you. I also realized just how common it was for men to go to the bathroom on the streets.

I came across a McDonald's during my wanderings and couldn't resist. But this Micky D's didn't have any beef, instead there was McAloos. The fries were good.

Friday night I took the overnight train second class to Varanasi which was its own adventure.

January 9: Jaipur

We roll into Jaipur, the pink city, early and head off to the Amber Fort and palace. We get a guide who shows us the maharaja's secret entrances to the rooms of his 12 wives.


The next stop was the observatory with several large scale sundials. Astrology played (and maybe still does) an important role in Hinduism and was used to determine dates of matrimony and other important events and determine the compatibility for arranged marriages.

There is no way to describe the traffic and driving here. Every ride is death defyiing and painful. The horn is just as important as the brakes. And everyone in India must have severe hearing loss.

January 6 - January 8: Rajastan Desert

We arrived in Jodhpur and saw green again! And there was no more horns (well, not as many).

Walking around town we came across a wedding procession. Its like a little parade - a band, dancing, an overload of color - with the groom riding at the rear on his white horse. Its a serious celebration.


For dinner, the seven of us pile into a ricksaw and head to On the Rocks, a very cool restaurant recommended by a native on the plane (but they didn't have any Bacardi Breezers).

Sunday morning we visited Meherangarh, the majestic fort where maharajas lived, before taxiing across the desert to the Sam Sand Dunes. We rode camels into the sunset just 35 miles away from the Pakistan border. Rachel took a tumble in the sand and almost got trampled on by her camel.


That night we stayed in plush tents in the desert and enjoyed some traditional Rajastan entertainment around a fire. One of the dancers walked on broken glass.

Saw more animals during our time in the desert including peacocks and wild pigs/boars.

Monday we taxied back into Jaisalmer, the golden city, and wandered around the city and visited the Fort. That night we hopped a night train to Jaipur and Kush headed back home. It was great having a native show us around and teach us about the culture.